ComparisonsJune 19, 2026·11 min read

FHA vs Conventional Loan: Which One Actually Costs You Less?

My cousin Maria bought her first house with an FHA loan because the bank said it was easier to qualify for. Two years later, she learned the hard way why that "easy" loan might cost her thirty thousand dollars more than her friend's conventional mortgage. Here's what she wishes someone had explained on day one.

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My cousin Maria bought her first house in 2022. She had a steady job, a 640 credit score, and about $12,000 saved up. She walked into her bank, asked about a mortgage, and the loan officer immediately suggested an FHA loan. "Easier to qualify for," he told her. "Lower down payment. It's designed for people like you."

She took the FHA loan. The rate was decent. The monthly payment felt manageable. She was happy.

Then, two years later, she called me frustrated. A friend of hers with a similar house and a similar loan amount had just refinanced and dropped her mortgage insurance. Maria asked her lender if she could do the same. The answer was no—and the explanation that followed made her realize she hadn't understood the fine print when she signed.

The loan officer wasn't wrong. FHA loans are easier to qualify for. But "easier to get" and "cheaper in the long run" are two different things. Maria learned that the hard way. Let's walk through the real differences so you don't have to.

What Each Loan Actually Is

An FHA loan is backed by the Federal Housing Administration. The government promises to cover some of the lender's losses if you default. That guarantee makes banks more willing to lend to people with lower credit scores, smaller down payments, or past financial hiccups. It's a government program designed to get more people into homeownership.

A conventional loan has no government backing. It's just you and the lender, following guidelines set by Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac. Because there's no government safety net for the bank, the standards are higher—better credit, more income documentation, lower debt levels.

Think of FHA as the program that gives people a shot when they don't meet conventional standards. And conventional as the loan that rewards people who do.

The Down Payment Myth

A lot of people assume FHA means low down payment and conventional means 20% down. That's not really true anymore.

FHA requires 3.5% down if your credit score is 580 or above. On a $300,000 house, that's $10,500.

Conventional loans can go as low as 3% down for first-time buyers through programs like Fannie Mae's HomeReady or Freddie Mac's Home Possible. That's $9,000 on the same house—actually less than FHA.

So on down payment alone, the two loan types are surprisingly similar. The real differences show up elsewhere.

Where FHA Wins: Getting Your Foot in the Door

If your credit score is below 680, FHA is often the easier path. Here's why.

FHA lenders will approve scores as low as 580 with 3.5% down, and sometimes even lower scores with a larger down payment. Conventional lenders generally want to see 620 or higher, and the best rates go to borrowers above 740.

FHA is also more forgiving of past credit problems. If you had a bankruptcy a few years ago or a stretch of late payments, FHA might still work with you while conventional lenders might pass.

For borrowers with thin credit files, irregular income, or higher debt-to-income ratios, FHA can be the difference between buying now and waiting years. That's genuinely valuable. Maria wouldn't have qualified for a conventional loan in 2022 with her 640 score and limited credit history. FHA put her in a home.

Where Conventional Wins: The Long Game

Here's where Maria's story takes a turn, and where FHA's biggest drawback lives.

Mortgage insurance. Both loan types require it when your down payment is under 20%. But they treat it very differently.

The detail Maria missed — and it's expensive.

FHA's mortgage insurance (MIP) can last the entire life of the loan. Conventional's PMI disappears when you hit 20% equity. That difference can cost you $18,000–$34,000.

The Trap Most People Miss: MIP vs PMI

With an FHA loan, if you put down less than 10%, the mortgage insurance premium—called MIP, not PMI—stays on your loan for the entire life of the loan. Thirty years. No way out unless you refinance into a different loan type. If you put down more than 10%, it still lasts for 11 years.

With a conventional loan, the mortgage insurance—called PMI—can be canceled once your equity reaches 20%. That can happen by paying down the balance, home value appreciation, or both. The lender must automatically cancel it when your balance hits 78% of the original value, and you can request cancellation at 80%.

This is the detail Maria missed. Her friend had a conventional loan. The home values in their neighborhood went up, her friend's equity crossed 20%, and PMI was removed. Maria's FHA insurance? Still there. Would be there for 28 more years unless she refinanced. If you want to understand more about how mortgage insurance works and when you can get rid of it, our complete guide to PMI breaks down every rule and loophole.

The Monthly Payment Reality

Let's put numbers on this so the difference is concrete.

Assume a $350,000 home with 5% down in both cases. Current rates for both loan types are in the mid-6% range for borrowers with decent credit.

CategoryFHA LoanConventional Loan
Down Payment$17,500$17,500
Loan Amount$332,500$332,500
Approx. Interest Rate6.5%6.5%
Mortgage InsuranceMIP: ~0.55% annually, for life of loanPMI: ~0.5–1.5% annually, cancelable
Monthly Insurance Cost~$150–$180/month, permanent~$140–$280/month, temporary

At first, the monthly payments might look similar. But fast-forward five years. If the home appreciates and the conventional borrower's equity crosses 20%, that PMI disappears—saving $150–$280 every month from then on. The FHA borrower keeps paying MIP, year after year.

Over a decade, that gap could total $18,000 to $34,000 in extra insurance costs on the FHA side. Want to see the exact impact on your numbers? Use our interactive mortgage calculator to compare both loan types side by side with real PMI and MIP estimates.

So Which One Should You Pick?

There's no universal answer, but there is a useful way to think about it.

Go FHA if:

  • Your credit score is below 680 and you can't improve it quickly
  • You have limited savings and need the lowest possible barrier to entry
  • You don't mind refinancing later into a conventional loan once your finances improve

FHA is a perfectly good entry ramp. Just know that staying on it long-term costs you money, so plan to get off it when you can.

Go conventional if:

  • Your credit score is 680 or above
  • Your debt-to-income ratio is manageable
  • You can swing at least 3–5% down
  • You want to avoid permanent mortgage insurance

For most borrowers who qualify for both, conventional wins over the long haul. The monthly savings after PMI cancellation add up fast.

And if you're wondering how your total monthly payment (PITI) actually breaks down—principal, interest, taxes, insurance, and PMI—our dedicated guide walks through each component with real examples.

The Question You Should Actually Ask

Everyone walks into a lender's office asking, "Which loan can I get approved for?" That's the wrong first question.

The right question is: "If I qualify for both, which one costs me less over the next five to ten years?"

Get both estimates in writing. Compare the total monthly payment—not just the interest rate. And pay special attention to the mortgage insurance line. Ask explicitly: "How long does this insurance last, and how do I cancel it?"

Maria refinanced her FHA loan into a conventional one about three years after buying. Her credit score had improved, her home had appreciated, and the math finally worked. She pays less now. But she told me she wished someone had explained the insurance difference on day one.

Run Your Own Numbers

Our mortgage calculator lets you compare both loan types side by side with realistic insurance estimates built in. Try your numbers before you walk into any lender's office.

Open the Calculator

Written by Chong Song · Last updated:

Data sources: CFPB, HUD, FHA, FHFA, IRS and Federal Reserve published data. See our calculator methodology and editorial policy for how these figures are compiled, reviewed and corrected.